Layers of Meaning

Demystifying Threads

Superior Threads has revealed the mysteries of thread measurement. Their online article begins (and I quote the first few paragraphs, though perhaps I should be memorizing them): "Thread size measurement - The weight or size of thread is an important consideration for any sewing project. The three most common methods of measurement of threads are weight, denier, and tex (sadly tex has no country and western songs).

1. Weight. A smaller weight number indicates a heavier thread. The weight of a thread is actually a length measurement. Dividing the length of thread by a set weight derives the exact measurement of a thread weight. A thread is labeled 40 wt. when 40 kilometers of that thread weighs 1 kilogram. A 30 wt. thread and is heavier because a it takes only 30 kilometers of thread to weigh one kilogram.

2. Denier. Weight in grams of 9000 meters of thread. If 9,000 meters weighs 120 grams, it is a 120-denier thread. Many polyester and rayon embroidery threads are 120/2, which equals 2 strands of 120-denier thread for a 240 denier total. Larger denier numbers are heavier threads.

3. Tex. Weight in grams of 1000 meters of thread. If 1,000 meters weighs 25 grams, it is a tex 25. Larger tex numbers are heavier threads"

And if you are still wondering why we should care: ". Needle size. A general rule is to use a needle whose eye is 40% larger than the diameter of the thread." The article goes on to explain how to match up a needle to the thread to lessen the fraying and breakage. They also discuss tension, number standard and composition standard.

A great reference piece for when I are tearing out my hair over thread that keeps breaking - maybe what I really need is a different sized needle!